Catalans and Catalunya

Over the last few weeks I had the opportunity to have some in-depth discussions with two Catalans, a man and a woman, regarding how they feel about themselves and their land in relationship with the country of Spain.  This isn't the first time that I've had discussions about this topic.  But what was different about these latest conversations was it was more about the heart than about the politics.  And I began to appreciate more the unique struggle that many Catalans feel in the current environment that they are in.

Sense of Identity

In talking with Miquel, one of the first things that he brought up was how much he does NOT feel

like a Spaniard.  He does not identify with being a Spanish citizen, although technically he has been one all his life.  He grew up in a pueblo outside of Barcelona.  There his family and his pueblo all spoke Catalan.  He learned Spanish (or Castellano) in school, but it was an academic language that he learned, not a language that he lived in.  All that changed when he moved to Barcelona, where as many people speak Spanish as they do Catalan.  What shocked him was how difficult it was for him to speak fluently in Castellano.  It took a while for him to feel comfortable expressing himself.   When meeting new people in the city, he always starts off speaking Spanish, because that is usually what is expected, but as soon as he knows that the other person can speak Catalan, he'll immediately switch to his native language, where he can speak more from the heart.  It irritates him a little bit that although he is in the capital city of Catalunya, he is not able to freely express himself in his own language.  Catalans, especially in Barcelona, are always adjusting their choice of language, especially in group settings when not everyone can speak Catalan, reverting back to Spanish, in order to be understood.

How Some Spaniards View Catalans

Miquel is weary of the demagoguery that some Spaniards express, especially politicians, of the character and integrity of Catalans. Catalans are a gentle, peaceful people, who simply want others to respect their language and culture and their right to self-determination.  But some people and politicians accuse Catalans as being terrorists if they are pro-independence.  He believes that Catalunya will someday be an independent nation, but it will only happen by peaceful endeavors, at least on the part of the Catalan people.  

My Conversation with Isis

Isis lives in Barcelona but she and her sister own the house where their parents lived in a town near Girona.  I went there with a friend to be part of the main festival of the year in this village.  Isis was having a dinner party prior to the festivities, which was right down the block from her place.  We got there a little late, and when we entered, she immediately started talking to me in Catalan.  My friend Oscar explained that I can only speak Spanish and English.  She immediately switched to Spanish and the first thing she told me was that I needed to learn Catalan.

Isis was a very gracious host.  She introduced me to her sister and her friends, all from Barcelona and were there to enjoy the festivities.  They were all speaking in Catalan with each other, but were very kind in switching to Spanish when I joined in on the conversation.

Even before I got to speak with Isis some more, it was obvious how her life and her friends were immersed in everything Catalán: the food, the drink, the festivities with Catalan music and dance (la Sardanya).  When I got to chat some more with her, she talked about the long history of injustice between the Catalan people and Spain; how their rights to self-govern, at least on a local level, and to speak their own language have been suppressed time and time again, for centuries.  Even in modern times, regardless of the political stripes, socialist or conservative, the central government of Spain has rarely supported or respected the life, language and culture of Catalunya.  In this last year, the current conservative administration has passed new laws to cut back the amount of Catalan that is spoken and taught in the Catalan schools, requiring more time to be spent teaching courses in Castellano.

Isis also is pro-independence and feels strongly that based on the economic strength of Catalunya and the disproportionate tax contribution that Catalunya gives to the Spanish state, that her country would survive just fine if it separated from Spain, but that Spain would not fair as well and would struggle with it's own survival without Catalunya.

I cannot say that these views are correct or not. I can say however, that there is a deep wound that has continually been exposed and festered, fed by prejudice, usurpation of power, injustice, and lack of understanding and respect.  I don't see much evidence today of this changing.  What is changing is the growing swell of voices speaking more boldly about being an independent country.  Those voices are somewhat muffled in the cosmopolitan city of Barcelona, but they are much clearer when you go out to the smaller towns and pueblos of Catalunya.

La Patum de Berga

On the day of Corpus Christi, this year was on June 4, the town of Berga, a pueblo near the Pyrenees and Andorra, has their century's old tradition of celebrating this day with music, fire and dance, in the plaza in front of the town hall.  It was an incredible event!  On the town hall building were a few Catalan independent flags and a count-down clock to the next elections on 9/27/2015.  They believe that these next elections will determine the future direction of Catalunya.

Personal Thoughts

What I have attempted to capture here is not a summary of the issues of Catalunya and Spain.  It's a complex issue with many different perspectives and facts to consider.  Nor am I choosing sides.  Personally, I believe that a permanent fracture between these two states would make my life living here much more complex with lots of unknowns.  But I am convinced that Catalans are longing to be understood and to receive the respect that they deserve.  If that doesn't change, I believe more and more of its citizens will seriously consider annexing themselves from Spain in a peaceful way, if given the chance.

Addendum

This topic is a sensitive one for almost everyone who lives in Catalunya.  I have only given the perspective of two individuals who's ancestors were from this region for generations.  However, there are many other voices who love this land including sons and daughters of immigrants from other parts of Spain and Latin America as well as other Catalans who want to continue to be part of Spain and yet seek to feel the freedom to express themselves fully as Catalans.  I hope to write more about these other viewpoints in future articles.

Below are a few of the videos that I took of the amazing festivities in Berga.